Definitely not for the faint hearted …
With a strong sense of the supernatural to its label, the 44% ABV Zealot’s Heart gin would look the part standing on the spirits shelf next to the equally forbidding Death’s Door we reviewed back before Christmas. And as with the excellent Caorunn, this London dry originates from Scotland, where the distillers have successfully combined a lengthy list of botanicals to craft a spirit which starts to deliver as soon as you pop the tightly fitting glass stopper.
It’s worth noting that Brew Dog – equally famous for beer – actually offers a selection of gins, graduated in power like Porsches: probably placing Zealot’s Heart equivalent to the mid-range Cayman; leaving the Navy Strength Gunpowder Gin to do battle with the 911 GT3. There’s also an entry level, 40% Lone Wolf Gin.
Echoing the extended Ethyl Ethel, which produces the Dartmoor Distillery’s Black Dog, the Brew Dog Distillery claims that its “extreme” triple-bubble still is responsible for Zealot’s uncompromising character. I must agree that the juniper is at the heart of the taste – and the nose – but the extended selection of spices, citrus peels and floral notes all contribute to a rich and lingering performance.
As well as grapefruit, lemon and lime peels, there’s Thai lemongrass, Kaffir lime leaves and lavender flower adding to the mix, while sweet and earthy flavours come from angelica and orris roots. Then for anyone who thought Mace was a mediaeval weapon, Zealot’s Heart uses the nutmeg derived spice along with Szechuan & sansho peppercorns, coriander and Grains of Paradise to extend the hit.
Although the flavour is complex and multi-layered the makers haven’t overplayed their hand as we felt with the Brockmans Gin and its different berry flavours, so it would probably work well in cocktails. Our serve so far though has been Schweppes or Fever-Tree tonic plus a garnish of lime or fresh ginger.
Echoing Bobby Pickett and the Crypt-Kickers, with their 70s hit Monster Mash, you’d have to rate Zealot’s Heart as a “Graveyard Smash”.
